Hiking and backpacking in Swedish Lapland

By Lars Bergquist

Hiking and backpacking in Swedish Lapland is somewhat different from both the U.S. and from continental (Alpine) Europe. Most of the specific info here pertains to the sub-arctic mountains above and around the tree line, near the Norwegian border. They are easily reached by air or by train from central Sweden. Norway and the Atlantic coast is an alternative approach; in places, you can pop over and walk down to the coast in a day! You might try Narvik, for instance.

Nature

The fjäll (Swedish for treeless heights, just like Scottish fells) are mostly somewhat rounded and not very high, with few summits above 2,000 m (ca 6,500 ft). Still, nice climbing is to be had if you do suffer from acromania. The mountains belong to the Caledonian folding system, from way back in the Paleozoic, like e.g. the Scottish hills. There are a number of moderate-sized glaciers. Permafrost, and thus tundra in the strict sense, exists in a few places only, but the vegetation is quite tundra-ish in general. Immediately above the tree line is usually a belt of hip-high entangling willows, below it dwarfish birches, not coniferous forest as in the Alps. The tree line is mostly at ca 800­900 m (2,600­3,000 ft) in Lapland. The flora varies in richness from somewhat monotonous on soils above acid bedrock to luxuriant where lime is available to the plants. Lichens, a staple food for reindeer, are important.

 
View over Tarraluoppal with the entrance to the
Tarra valley in the background. Photo by L. Bergquist

The birdlife is fairly rich in the summer while there are few large mammals except reindeer. These are very closely related to the North American caribou, but they are cattle, not game. Brown bear and wolverine are found, but you won't see them ­ in this open terrain they will spot you long before you spy them. Elk (moose to you Americans) go all the way up to the tree line. Sorry, no polar bears.There are no snakes and the main nuisance is mosquitos and gnats, which can in places drive you to distraction in late June and early July.

The weather is very fickle, and you may well experience three seasons in one day. Expect occasional, sometimes continous rain from the North Atlantic. In the summer season, day temperatures usually range from +5 to +15 degrees Celsius (ca 42­58 F), but they can at times reach 20 degrees (68 F). When the temperature climbs above 14 degrees or so, the Lapps complain about the terrible heat wave.

Planning a Tour

There are basically two options: a camping tour with a heavy pack, or using the really good system of huts maintained (mostly) by STF, the Swedish Touring Association, along marked trails in (mostly) roadless country. The huts, and also boats at lake crossings, are available in the summer season from late June to the middle of August. Before that, you don't hike ­ you wade. After that, the first snow falls.There's usually permanent snow cover from middle to late September. (There's a winter season too, for skiers. It begins in February­March, when the sun reappears; remember, there is permanent night around mid-winter at or above the Arctic Circle.) STF info is found at the end of this posting.

Trails
Though the County Administrations, the Swedish Environmental Protection Agency (Naturvårdsverket) maintains the 'state trails system' of nearly 5,500 km (3,400 mi.) of marked trails, most of them in the far North, where there are links to the Norwegian trails. The Agency also maintains the huts in the Padjelanta National Park, which together with the adjoining Sarek NP is the largest protected area in Europe. Sarek, the Padjelanta and adjacent protected areas are now a World Heritage, known as the Lapponia Park. Trails are moderately rough. There are suspension footbridges across dangerous streams (Indiana Jones style) and plank footbridges across bogs, but expect some wet passages and unaided brook crossings. The water is glacial but always potable in lakes and brooks above and not too far below the tree line. We have no Giardia here­honest! But mind your step and use your head. Off the trails, we lose a few people most every year because of ill-considered attempts to cross too deep and swift-running brooks. A telescoping or take-down walking staff is a great help if it is long enough, i.e. shoulder height.

Huts

These offer rustic communal bunking. Mattresses and blankets are provided, there is no need to carry anything but a bag-style sheet (but you can of course bring a sleeping bag if you like). There are wood stoves and propane ranges for heating and cooking, respectively; kitchen and eating utensils are available. You hew wood and carry water, take out the slops and sweep the floor when you leave. There is a hut host, but for maintenance and information, not for room service. No booking. Nobody is ever turned out into the storm, but in foul weather, you may have to accept improvisations. Some huts also sell provisions ­ every second day's march along the main north-south Kungsleden (the Royal Trail) between Abisko and Kvikkjokk, all of them in some areas further south. Do feel welcome. Just drop your hat on an unoccupied bunk, write your name in the guest book and go find the host, so you can pay.

Overnight fees vary. They are higher in high season along the most frequented trails sections (especially along the Kungsleden from Abisko and south) than they are on the less-traveled trails. They are lower for STF members. Buy a membership card in the first hut ­ that pays. For the latest fees, e-mail or fax STF (see info at end of page). Remember, most of the huts are provisioned by snowmobile in the winter and by helicopter in the summer, so fuel and materials get expensive. Abisko, Kebnekaise, Saltoluokta and Kvikkjokk in Lapland, other places further south, have fjällstationer which are simple but good hotels/pensions with lots of activities, a friendly atmosphere and good food. They also sell equipment, such as stoves, some clothing etc. If you stay there, you can rent things you need. Kebnekaise is the climbing Mecca.

Off-trail Hiking

Because of Sweden's (and Finland's) unique Law of Public Access, you can hike and camp everywhere with the only provisos that you do no damage, take nothing of substantial economic value, respect privacy and hamper nobody's legitimate activities. You cannot cut or dig out living plants, but you can pick berries and mushrooms and use fallen branches for fuel (but making a fire is at your own risk ­ be responsible and remember that the turf itself can start burning without anybody noticing it if you are careless). Fishing is by license but not expensive. With eight million people in a country the size of California or nearly as large as France, there's lots of free space. In Lapland above the tree line, be careful not to disturb the reindeer herds of the Lapps, who may have spent days to bring them together for earmarking or killing. Restrictions on camping and fishing are in force in certain national parks. Here, rules differ, but they are normally posted at the entrances of the parks, both in English and Swedish.

The rapids in Stalojåkka. Photo by L. Bergquist

Safety

There is a rescue service, but you may have to pay for it if you have been negligent or irresponsible. Most huts have shortwave emergency radios, but off the trails, caution (and company) is advisable. A broken ankle can mean a long crawl to the nearest hut. Always carry map (Fjällkartan 1:100,000 with added trail info; you can buy it at any fjällstation), compass, knife, whistle, first aid kit and something to make a fire. Keep a weather eye on the weather and be alert for signs of it deteriorating. Remember, the place is not regularly patrolled the way for instance the U.S. National Parks are ­ you are on your own. Be sensible. The Norwegians use to say that 'it's not shameful to turn back'; and if even they say so, it is probably true!

Gear

For a trip between huts, 2.5 cu.ft. (70­75 litres) is enough volume for the pack. Remember the need to protect not only yourself but also the pack against rain. Expect temperatures ranging between a fair summer's day and freezing, so bring extra underwear, a sweater, a wool hat and gloves. Wear high walking style rubber boots (with sturdy soles and steel shanks in the sole; this is what most Swedish hikers use) or high leather boots well greased, and carry water sandals or quick-drying canvas shoes with rubber soles for brook crossings. In my experience, and that of some very crestfallen Continental guests, low Alpine-style boots are pretty useless.

If you are considering camping, then I would say that 'three-season gear' is not good enough. Swedes favor tunnel-style tents with inner tents semi-permanently attached, no loose rain flies. Such a tent can be erected single-handedly in a high wind, if necessary. The cooking fuel generally available on-trail is denatured alcohol for Trangia-style stoves. If you insist on propane or white gasoline, you will have to buy it in a town and bring it along. Propane gas is not terribly popular, as temperatures are often rather too low for that fuel to work efficiently. Army Rangers use alcohol or multi-fuel stoves.

Good Hikes

These are plentiful. This is just a sampler of easy and pleasurable routes. All of them, except the last (Sarek) offer hut-to-hut hiking, and seldom more than 20 km (12.5 mi.) between them, usually much less (12-14 km).

Abisko­Nikkaluokta by Kungsleden
This is a classic. You go to Abisko by train or bus via Kiruna or Narvik. Provisioning in Abisko. Two days via Abiskojaure to Alesjaure (with a shop and, when I last visited the place during a Lapp heatwave, a refrigerator with cold beer...). From there to the Tjäktja Pass (hut) and south along the valley via Sälka (provisions) to Singi (hut). Here you leave the Kungsleden and turn east, one day's march to Kebnekaise through the dramatic Ladtjovaggi valley. From Keb is one day to Nikkaluokta and the bus to Kiruna, but you can cheat and take the helicopter. This is OK, I did it once after an eight day solo. Alternatively, you can continue south three days from Singi by Kaitum (provisions) and Teusajaure (hut) to Vakkotavare (hut), where another bus takes you back to civilization.

Abisko­Abisko
You start as above and walk to Alesjaure (which is a nice place for a day of rest). From Tjäktja, you take an unmarked but easy trail through the mountains to Nallo Hut, which is as Arctic as they come. You have to ford practically to the front door. Then 9 kms down Stuor Räitavaggi valley to the beautiful Vistasvaggi valley and the Vistas hut. (From there, you can go down the Vistasvaggi to Nikkaluokta, but that is really a two-day hike and you will need a tent). But it is just one easy day's march back to Alesjaure, a sauna, and then back to Abisko. Alternatively, you can go clockwise Alesjaure­Vistas­Nallo­Tjäktja­Alesjaure, or Vistas­Nallo­Sälka­Singi­Keb, as I did on that solo. By the way, Abisko is the perfect place for a stay with day trekking. The little National Park is famous for its flora.

Sunset over Virihaure with the church hut in the foreground. Photo by L. Bergquist.

Padjelanta
The bus that takes people to and from Vakkotavare also goes to the Ritsem STF station (provisions) with a boat line to the Akka and Vaisaluokta huts. Both are starting points for the Padjelanta trail. This goes four days across rolling meadow and moor, west of the mountains of Sarek, to Staloluokta by Lake Virihaure. (Stalo is also accessible by helicopter from Kvikkjokk, to the dismay of purists. Provisions are sold in the Lapp camp). Then two days across high moors to the Tarra valley, and then four or perhaps three days down to Kvikkjokk, the restaurant, the sauna and the bus. Såmmarlappa is a good stopover in the valley (provisions). Padjelanta ('the Highlands' in Lapp) is an Eldorado for botanists and the Tarra valley is also famous. Ten day's marches in all.

Saltoluokta­Kvikkjokk
The Vakkotavare­Ritsem bus also stops at Kebnats jetty, with a boat to Salto fjällstation by the Lapp camp. Four days' easy hiking to Kvikkjokk via Aktse (provisions). Aktse is one of the gateways to Sarek. The delta lands and the Rapa valley are of great biological interest.

Sarek National Park
This is tougher. Sarek is deliberately being kept wild, hut-less, even mostly trail-less. It is accessible from Kvikkjokk (via Pårte hut and a high traverse), Aktse, Salto (via Ultevis hut and then a boat trip) and Ritsem­Akka (one day to Kisuris by the edge of the park). Sarek is built up of partly glaciated massifs, divided by long valleys. A traverse will take at least four days to one week, approach marches not counted. It can rain prodiguously in Sarek. And people have been lost without trace there and never heard of again.

People

Both ethnic Swedes, some Finns and Lapps live in the area. The Lapps, who prefer to call themselves the Sami or Sameh, are not at all picturesque. They seem to dress mostly in Patagonia clothes, Swarowski binoculars and communication radios and they often travel by helicopter. Only a small minority of families belong to the reindeer cooperatives ('villages'), and even they are not really nomadic: only a few full-time herdsmen follow the deer. Families may however spend their vacations with Dad in the summer grazing lands up by the Norway border. A considerable number of Lapps live in Stockholm and work office hours. The traditional culture and the language are alive and developing however, and crafts like knife-smithing, bone and horn engraving, woodcarving and tin-wire embroidery are an important source of income. In Jokkmokk there is an interesting Lapp museum, Ájtte (meaning Storehouse). Most young people of all ethnic groups understand and can make themselves understood in English. The Lapps are well organized and politically aware. Respect them, and they will respect you.

Contact Info

Your best contact in Sweden:
STF Stockholm Travel Bureau
Box 25
S­101 20 Stockholm (yes, zip code first)

Email: info@stfturist.seSweden
Fax: int + 46 8 678 1958
STF Home Page
This is a very spare page. The best approach is by e-mail or fax, asking for specific information. STF is run on the members' money, so do not expect to be showered with free glossy brochures. STF organizes group hikes with equipment, food and guides, if you do not want to strike out on your own.

Naturvårdsverket, the Environmental Protection Agency, is found on
NVV Home Page
which has information on the National Parks.

Sametinget is an official organization to represent the Lapp or Sameh people in its dealings with the State. They have a very nice site at
Sametinget Home Page

All in all, we have lots of guests from the Alpine countries who find the rolling mountains, the open valleys and the nearly total absence of parking lots, Pizza Huts, Bierstuben and tourist traps a refreshingly different experience. The fact that you can find yourself in places where the nearest road is four or five day's walk away does add a macho dimension to it, it seems... and lots of machos are women.

Note on those funny characters:
Scandinavian languages use three special accented characters which are sorted separately, at the end of the alphabet. They are (the order varies in different languages):
å ­Somewhat like the 'o' in English 'horn'. Also French 'eau'.
ä ­Like the 'ai'-sound in English 'hair', or the 'è' in French 'chère'.
ö ­Similar to 'ea' in English 'heard', or French 'eux'.
The North Lapp language (there are three Lapp languages in Sweden, and several more abroad) has a new ortography which is found on the appropriate sheets of the Fjällkartan. It is heavily accented, looks like Czech and must be a nightmare for a PC user.

You are welcome to contact me, but I am not an official organization with a publicity budget, and I work nine to five attending to entirely different matters. Your best bet is the STF.

Lars Bergquist

I also have a Home Page

This page updated January 1998

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